Has anyone had any experience with tungsten-balanced constant (non-flash) lighting rigs?
I'm going to be doing some serious, paid model photography indoors and the weather here is proper nasty, so I'm looking for some tips on how to light the subject without flash.
The models are new and inexperienced, therefore I am going to try and reduce the difficulties associated with flash studio work by using constant lighting.
I'll be shooting 35mm on a Nikon F3 with 105mm f1.8 lens and MF on a Mamiya 645 with 85mm f2.8 lens.
I'll be looking to do some moody lighting - lots of snoots and venetian shots; rather than anything bright.
Any help, tips or random thoughts will be greatfully accepted!
Rob
I have a couple of these:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/ChristiePhoto/2561-L.gif
Each unit has two independent toggle switches for the 1000 watt quartz bulbs. As you would imagine, they give off a very nice soft light.
I have never (at least,so far) used them with people. Color balance was always an issue, movement too when shooting at smaller aperatures. Now, with digital, I've been planning to give 'em a try.
If you add a spot light or two, you can get some very directional light. These allow adding diffusers (black metal screens) on the front, which softens only a bit but will reduce output by 1/2 stop or so. Spot lights are focusable (is that a word?), controling shadow egde sharpness.
The first time I used lighting like this, I rented them from a big outfit that supplies equipment to the cinema industry. This would give you a chance to see for yourself.
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One more thought. I believe each 1000 watt bulb is gonna want about 8 amps or so. Here in the states, most circuits are wired for 15-20 amps. So if I'm using 4000 watts, I need at least two differnt circuits for the power.
Just remember hot lights are.... HOT!
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Keep paper away, keep flamable things away, else they may spontainiously combust. (generally a bad thing)
That's obvious, but I have heard shoots where the models started to sweat. Just use common sense.
Tungsten works pretty much the same as flash so you can use the same techniques. Just remember that tungsten runs a lot hotter so keep everything that much further away from the bulbs.
I was always very partial to a couple of hot redheads in the studio....
I use these...
http://www.lowel.com/images/systems/tota/tota_light.jpg
And here are my results...
http://www.wxnut.net/478-7895_IMGs.jpg
http://www.wxnut.net/477-7794_IMGs.jpg
http://www.wxnut.net/478-7814_IMGs.jpg
http://www.wxnut.net/478-7861_IMGs.jpg
http://www.wxnut.net/471-7194_IMG.jpg
http://www.wxnut.net/artred1s.jpg
I use a digital SLR, and the auto white balance has a tough time with it. Putting it on the tungstan setting will give you more realistic colors, but I personally like the warm feel the auto gives to the girls in the above pictures.
I have 2 tota lights in front. One side goes through a diffusing umbrella, and the other is reflected off a reflecting umbrella. I then have 2, 200 watt light bulbs shining on the backs of their heads.
Any questions, feel free to ask.
Doug Raflik
wxnut@charter.net
http://www.wxnut.net
Thanks people. I'm going to try a few 1000W Xenon floods I've found at a hardware store - they chuck out a lot of light which appears blue, so we'll see what happens! Results to be posted soon!
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